Edge flashing
Drip edge is added where it was left off so water drips clear of the fascia.
A roofer in Weehawken can repair or replace the step flashing, counter flashing, kickout flashing, valley metal and drip edge that seal the joints of a roof, woven correctly with the shingles and tucked behind the siding. Dial (551) 373-3025 to talk with a local roofer about the flashing.
Shingles handle the open field of a roof; flashing handles the joints. The main types are step flashing at sidewalls, apron flashing at headwalls, counter flashing over the top, kickouts at the bottom of walls, valley metal and drip edge at the edges. Each of those pieces has one job, and when it fails, water finds the gap.
Flashing leaks are sneaky because the water often runs into the wall instead of the attic. A missing kickout is a classic example: water running down the roof edge pours behind the siding at the bottom of the wall, and the rot shows up later as soft trim, stained siding or a damp window below. Catching it early keeps the repair to the flashing instead of the wall.
One of the most common shortcuts on roofs is caulk in place of metal. Roofing cement and caulk shrink, crack and pull away under sun and temperature swings, then let water in again. Lasting flashing repair means new metal installed in the right order, with sealant only as a backup.
Many flashing repair calls in Weehawken also turn up a need for chimney flashing repair or roof leak repair.
Need flashing repair in Weehawken? Call (551) 373-3025 to reach a nearby roofing contractor.
Call nowFlashing repair is a layering job, done from the bottom up.
The flashing is checked along its full length, from the eave up, along with the wall sheathing where it can be seen. Damage in the wall changes the scope, so it is checked early.
The shingles next to the wall come up, and the lowest siding courses come off to expose the flashing. That is the only way to lap new metal behind the wall weather barrier.
New step flashing is installed one piece per shingle course, each lapping the one below, with a kickout diverter at the bottom. Nails stay on the horizontal leg, high enough to be covered by the next shingle.
On masonry walls, counter flashing is set into a cut joint; on framed walls, the housewrap and siding cover the flashing. Siding pressed tight to the shingles stays wet and rots.
Damaged drip edge is renewed so water drips clear of the fascia. Correct laps at the edges keep water out of the fascia and soffit.
Drip edge is added where it was left off so water drips clear of the fascia.
Step pieces along walls and dormer cheeks are replaced and woven with new shingles.
Kickouts are fitted at the bottom of roof-to-wall joints to steer water into the gutter.
Counter flashing over step pieces is refitted or replaced so the top edge of the step flashing stays covered.
Headwall metal at the top of a slope is replaced and covered by the siding or counter flashing.
Flashing repairs can be small or involved, depending on how long water has been getting in. Some repairs take an hour at one corner; others mean opening a whole wall joint and replacing the metal course by course. Ask the roofer which kind of repair your joint needs.
Not every flashing metal works in every spot. Copper outlasts most roofs, galvanized steel is durable and aluminum is light and easy to bend, though it corrodes in contact with wet masonry. Mixing copper with aluminum or galvanized metal in contact can cause corrosion, so the roofer matches the metal to what is already there.
Roof valleys carry the runoff from two slopes, so they handle more water than any other part of the roof. An open valley uses a strip of metal, often a W-shaped valley pan with a center rib, with the shingles cut back on each side; a closed valley has the shingles woven or cut across it with no metal showing. Both need ice and water shield underneath, centered in the valley.
Valley leaks often come from debris, worn shingles or nails driven too close to the center. Shingle corners cut square instead of clipped at the top can also steer water sideways under the valley shingles. A valley that leaks is generally rebuilt rather than patched.
In Weehawken, many flashing problems date back to an old reroof where the original flashing was reused or caulked instead of replaced. Across Weehawken and nearby communities including Union City, West New York, Hoboken and Secaucus, the age of the house and the number of roof-to-wall joints decide how much flashing work is likely, which is why roofers pay extra attention to walls, dormers and additions.
Searching for flashing repair near me from Weehawken or Union City, West New York, Hoboken and Secaucus? Call (551) 373-3025 to talk to a roofer who works in your part of town.
Cold winters bring snow, ice and a long stretch of freezing nights. When warm attic air melts the snow, the meltwater runs down and freezes again at the eaves, building ice dams that push water up under the shingles. Coastal storms and heavy spring rain drive water sideways into flashing, valleys and old chimneys. Most homeowners in Weehawken, NJ have the roof checked in the fall and again after the snow melts.
A roof problem fixed early rarely spreads to the decking, the insulation or the ceilings.
Roofers in Weehawken know the roof types and weather wear common in local homes.
Ask your questions before you agree to anything.
More questions? Call (551) 373-3025
Repairing the step, counter, apron and back pan flashing where a chimney passes through the roof, instead of another coat of tar.
Learn moreFinding where water gets through the roof and sealing it at the source, with the damage underneath checked too.
Learn moreFixing leaking, fogged or cracked skylights and the flashing around them, after sorting out whether the water is a leak or condensation.
Learn moreFixing the vents and pipe collars that poke through a roof and often leak first, with the attic airflow kept working.
Learn moreLooking for something else?
See all roofing servicesCall now for Weehawken flashing repair and help in the towns around it.